Monferrato is a large and diverse wine region, so it makes sense to explore it in smaller zones. In this guide we start from the villages closest to the Langhe and work our way east, focusing on Castagnole delle Lanze, Costigliole d’Asti, Canelli, Santo Stefano Belbo, Nizza Monferrato, Agliano Terme and Acqui Terme.
Nizza Monferrato
Nizza is quite a bustling little town. The main pedestrian area is full of small boutiques, and there are plenty of places to eat, drink, and be merry.
Winery visit
Scarpa
address: Via Montegrappa 6, Nizza Monferrato (AT)
closed: Saturday & Sunday
telephone: +39 (0)141 721331
At Scarpa you can travel back in time, both through the wines and the history of the winery. You’ll have the chance to understand up close the importance of Barbera and how Scarpa has helped change its image over the years.
Where to eat
Le Due Lanterne
address: Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi 52, Nizza Monferrato (AT)
closed: Tuesday
telephone: +39 (0)141 702480
One of my favorite places: super traditional, amazing food, and never disappointing.
Pizzeria La Locanda del Campanon
address: Piazza Martini di Alessandria 18, Nizza Monferrato (AT)
closed: Sunday lunch
telephone: +39 (0)141 793635
A great Napoli-style pizza with different crust options if you want to mix it up a bit.
Where to drink
Cugini di Torino
address: Via Gozzellini 13, Nizza Monferrato (AT)
open: every day from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m.
telephone: +39 (0)141 1763303
One of my favorite spots for a cocktail. They’re known for their Barbera Tonic, a local specialty created by Alessandro. A place you really shouldn’t skip.
Costigliole d’Asti
Winery visit
Cascina Castlet
address: Strada Castelletto 6, Costigliole d’Asti (AT)
closed: Saturday & Sunday
telephone: +39 (0)141 966651
A fun and whimsical place, just like their labels. Here you can taste different styles of Barbera d’Asti and discover a very special grape variety that few people have heard of or tasted: Uvalino. This is probably one of the only places where you can try it.
Where to eat
Ristorante Collavini
address: Strada Traniera 24, Costigliole d’Asti (AT)
closed: Tuesday dinner & Wednesday all day
telephone: +39 (0)141 966440
Nestled in the middle of the vineyards, this small bed and breakfast has a wonderful traditional restaurant. In the kitchen you’ll find the father, who has been cooking typical Monferrato dishes for decades. A must if you want to eat like a local.
Where to grab a glass
Vino & Bottega
address: Piazza Umberto I, 2, 14055 Costigliole d'Asti (AT)
telephone: +39 351 4085084
A very exciting selection of wines from local producers and beyond. Paolo and Silvia’s warm hospitality makes you feel as though you’re in their home. Come for a glass (or a bottle!) and don’t forget to leave room for their snacks.
Canelli
Where to sleep
Relais Villa del Borgo
address: Via Castello 1, Canelli (AT)
telephone: +39 (0)141 824212
This beautifully restored home at the top of Canelli’s historic center combines elegant modern touches with one of the best views over Monferrato. You’ll be greeted by Patrizia, one of the warmest and most welcoming hosts in the area.
Where to eat
Osteria d’la Sternia
address: Via Villanova 4, Canelli (AT)
closed: Thursday
telephone: +39 333 7546327
A cozy and casual place to tuck into. The food offers great typical dishes from the area, and the wine list has a very solid selection.
Ristorante San Marco
address: Via Alba 136, Canelli (AT)
closed: Tuesday & Wednesday
telephone: +39 (0)141 823544
A one-Michelin-star restaurant, and well worth it. They respect traditional recipes but add a touch of Michelin-level finesse.
Wineries to visit
Coppo
address: Via Alba 68, Canelli (AT)
open: every day
telephone: +39 (0)141 823146
A UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most beautiful wineries to visit. The wines are excellent too. Here you can follow a historic journey from past to present: sparkling wines, the importance of Barbera d’Asti, Moscato d’Asti, and don’t forget to ask about their magnificent Freisa (tell them you heard it from me!).
Contratto
address: Via Giovanni Battista Giuliani 54, Canelli (AT)
open: every day
telephone: +39 (0)141 823349
Another UNESCO World Heritage site. The tour is very informative on the production of their traditional method sparkling wines. Contratto guides you through the life of a bottle, from harvest to disgorgement, and finally to your glass.
Castagnole delle Lanze
Where to sleep
Dimora Cortese
address: Via Auberti 3, Castagnole delle Lanze (AT)
telephone: +39 347 6713615
Located in the historic center of sleepy Castagnole delle Lanze, this is the perfect place for some R&R. The old palazzo has been beautifully restored, keeping its original charm while adding modern comforts.
Where to eat
Wine Story
address: Via Ener Bettica 2, Castagnole delle Lanze (AT)
closed: Wednesday
telephone: +39 (0)141 1766381
A cute little spot in the historic center. You’ll find traditional cuisine with a modern touch and a wine list with some real gems.
Winery visits
Gianni Doglia
address: Strada Annunziata 56, Castagnole delle Lanze (AT)
closed: Sunday
telephone: +39 (0)141 878359
A small family-run winery that is simply doing a great job. Visit them not only for the wines but also for their experiences: vineyard hikes, picnic lunches, and more.
Azienda Agricola Delinquent (Casa Cubo)
address: Via Annunziata 68, 14054 Castagnole delle Lanze (AT)
telephone: +39 378 0017567
Just outside the Barbaresco border you’ll find the small farm Delinquent. Gianni has been making wine for over 20 years, and together we produce organic wines from ancient indigenous varieties that you won’t often find. The tasting room has one of the best views in town — come see for yourself!
Santo Stefano Belbo
How to start your day
Pasticceria Dogliotti
address: Piazza Annibale Costa 6, Santo Stefano Belbo (CN)
closed: Tuesday (open every other day from 6:30 a.m.)
telephone: +39 (0)141 843145
If you like pastries, this is your place. If you like gelato, this is your place. If you wake up early, this is definitely your place.
Where to eat
Ristorante Belbo da Bardon (San Marzano Oliveto)
address: Regione Valle Asinari 25, San Marzano Oliveto (AT)
closed: Wednesday & Thursday
telephone: +39 (0)141 831340
If you ask me where I’d like to go for dinner tonight, this will always be my answer. An old-school osteria serving main courses and cheese from a cart — they roll it up and slice your portion in front of you, and you can say “stop” when you’ve had enough. The wine list? I’ve never seen it, because they seem to read minds. I’ve been to their cellar, though, and they have a lot of bottles — and many I’d love to drink.
Where to grab a gelato
Bun da Mat Gelateria
address: Piazza Umberto I, 36, 12058 Santo Stefano Belbo (CN)
closed: Monday (check Google Maps for updated opening hours)
telephone: +39 338 4671809
Some of the best flavors around! “Bun da Mat” in Piedmontese means “crazy good,” and trust me — it really is.
Winery visit
Marcalberto
address: Via Porta Sottana 9, Santo Stefano Belbo (CN)
closed: Saturday & Sunday
telephone: +39 (0)141 844022
A very small family-run winery specializing in sparkling wines — and doing a great job. They make around 30,000 bottles per year, and thanks to their high quality, they are quickly becoming the talk of the town. Go sooner rather than later.
Agliano Terme
Where to sleep and relax
Villa Fontana
address: Via Giuseppe Mazzini 69, 14041 Agliano Terme (AT)
telephone: +39 0141 964031
Really nice and comfy rooms with a beautiful spa and great views. You’ll be immersed in Monferrato’s nature in a convenient location for visiting other areas.
Winery visit
Cantina Dacapo Ca' ed Balos
address: Via Nizza 4, 14041 Agliano Terme (AT)
telephone: +39 335 7091570
A small family-run winery where you can taste local indigenous varieties: from Ruchè and Grignolino to Moscato and Barbera. They have a great lineup and work organically.
Acqui Terme
Where to grab a gelato
Porta Paolo - Gelateria Canelin Di Verdese Giovanni
address: Viale Antiche Terme 16, 15011 Acqui Terme (AL)
telephone: +39 0144 323340
Where to have breakfast
Pasticceria Le Bollentine
address: Corso Bagni 48, 15011 Acqui Terme (AL)
telephone: +39 347 1343083
Acqui Terme is famous for its Roman therapeutic sulfur-enriched waters, which are the magic behind these brioches. Insider tip: ask to have your brioche filled on the spot. Some flavors we recommend: pistachio; crema and raspberry jam; and “Sacher” (chocolate and apricot jam).
Where to taste the local wine
Enoteca Regionale di Acqui Terme
address: Piazza Abramo Levi, 15011 Acqui Terme (AL)
telephone: +39 0144 321873
Acqui is famous for one thing in particular: Brachetto d'Acqui DOCG. Here they take the indigenous Brachetto variety and turn it into a slightly sparkling sweet wine, pale pink in color, reminiscent of wild strawberries and violets. Perfect with dark chocolate cake — or a brioche from Pasticceria Le Bollentine.