Among the historic wineries of Barolo, few combine tradition, personality, and deep roots in the territory as vividly as Brezza. This article takes you inside the story of the family, their vineyards, and a memorable tasting of the 2003 Cannubi—one of the most iconic crus in the entire Barolo appellation.
The Brezza Family
Not many people can say that they get to work by the side of an important winemaker. I can. I have been working with Enzo Brezza and his family for the past four years, and I can say that I have learned a LOT. It has been an honor to watch first-hand the thought and detail that go into every bottle, taste frequently from the barrel, offer my opinion, and help whenever needed. It has also been wonderful to hear the stories and unwritten history of the Langhe. These stories I will share in future posts.
Brezza is certainly in the running for being one of the oldest wineries in the town of Barolo. They might not be the very first, but their history runs deep.
A Family of Strong Personalities
Enzo, the fourth-generation winemaker—who once dreamed of becoming a pilot—was brought “back to the ground” when he took over the family business from his father Oreste in the 1980s. Oreste, known for both his wit and his iconic Cavalier mustache, appears in antique photos hanging in the Barolo castle from the era of the Savoy family. There is still fierce competition over who has the better mustache!
One of Oreste’s famous quotes, when asked how long a Barolo can age: “I’ll let you know when I’m dead.” He is now 84, drinks two glasses of wine a day, and does not look a day over 62.
The Importance of Terroir
Today Brezza holds some of Barolo’s most sought-after crus and demonstrates the importance of terroir in their wines. During a tasting, you can try their three Barolo crus—each vinified the same way—and clearly perceive the subtle nuances of each vineyard. That’s the beauty of the Langhe: three vineyards side by side, three distinctly different wines.
The Cannubi Vineyard
Cannubi is probably the most famous MGA (Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva) in the Langhe. Its fame is linked to its long history: a bottle of Nebbiolo labeled “Cannubi (Cannubio)” dates back to 1752—one hundred years before the first documented use of the name “Barolo” for the wine.
This means that even centuries ago, locals recognized Cannubi’s unique quality. Its position is ideal for Nebbiolo, a grape that requires a long ripening season. Historically, farmers harvested Nebbiolo in November; today harvest usually takes place in October.
The soils of Cannubi are a mix of Sant’Agata Fossil Marl and Diano Sandstone—poor, well-draining soils that are extremely favorable for high-quality grape production.
Tasting the 2003 Barolo Cannubi
The 2003 vintage was one of the hottest in history. You might wonder why on earth anyone would want to taste a “hot vintage” wine, one that many assume is not made for aging—especially at 15 years old. Because even in the toughest vintages, great winemakers stand out.
Brezza Cannubi 2003 is still fresh and lively. Never judge a wine solely by its vintage. On the nose, it feels like walking into a pastry shop: powdered sugar, candied fruit, violets, rose. On the palate, the finish is almost endless. Tobacco, chocolate, and dried orange peel are lifted by vibrant acidity. The wine does not feel tired—it still has the potential for another ten years. And I cannot wait to taste it again then.
